Welcome to Paddy's Garage! Follow along with my mixture of British car restoration projects, service tips, club and car show events and miscellaneous British car information. Don’t forget to Like us on Facebook
This week started off with a little setback. Upon removing the right front bottom spring plate, to install the upper bump stop, it was discovered the the lower control arm's (aka Wishbone aka A-Frame) bushing were shot. Here's a quick video that demonstrates the issue. There will be more on this topic as it appears that the front "fulcrum pin" and spindle will also need attention.
This week in Paddy’s Garage - Week 6. I’m still in the process of removing engine bay components and refurbishing them as I go. The main tasks this week were to:
Paint the brake/clutch pedal box and install the master cylinder.
. Remove and polish the Lucas 25D distributor.
Remove the Lucas generator
Evapo-Rust, polish and paint the generator
Remove and repair the PurOLator oil filter mounting.
Remove the Lucas starter
Begin removing cables, wires and minor accessories
Next week the engine bay work continues with labeling and organizing loose wires, removing hydraulic lines and cleaning and striping the engine.
Here are some of the highlights from this week -
Paint the brake/clutch pedal box and install the master cylinder.
Remove and polish the Lucas 25D distributor.
Remove the Lucas generator
Evapo-Rust, polish and paint the generator
Remove and repair the PurOLator oil filter mounting
Remove the Lucas starter
. Begin removing cables, wires and minor accessories
Engine bay work continues today with the removal, cleaning, polishing and painting of the Mk1 Austin-Healey Bugeye Sprite. I've previously removed most of the engine accessories on the left side of the engine and the radiator. Having the radiator out of the way makes the removal process very easy.
The Mk 1 Austin-Healey Sprite has a cable driven tachometer powered by a "gearbox" on the end of the generator. Loosening the large brass nut allows the drive cable to easily slip off.
Disassembly of a Lucas generator is relatively simple. Two long thin bolts fasten the two end plates to the central generator body. Care was taken to photo how it all came apart, taking special note of wire connections and the condition of the brushes. All of the metal parts were dipped, dunked and polished. The body was sanded and given a coat of paint.
One of the interesting components of this model of generator is the self-lubricating rear bearing feature. The brass tube at the rear of the generator contains a spring loaded felt that is impregnated with high-temp grease. This should be serviced every 12,000 miles.
Here's the final product. As will be a continuing theme in my engine bay clean-up, I've elected not to paint the aluminum components. I've also not painted the pully and fan. I've seen this done both ways (painted / bare metal). I think this adds a bit of "bling" without adding additional chrome, etc. The clutch/brake pedal box and generator are now ready to be placed into short-term storage as I move on to removing the oil filter mount/adapter and the starter.
The Econobox Garage YouTube channel has put together a very nice video on How to assemble a Lucas generator as used in an Austin Healey Sprite MK1. Bugeye Build Episode https://youtu.be/Sk3dOYhdSpw
Ms. Scarlet, the 1959 Mk 1 Austin-Healey Sprite, came home with a number of issues that needed to be addressed before she could hit the road. The seller had disclosed that the right rear brake cylinder was leaking and would need to be replaced. Once I got her home, I pulled ALL of the brake drums to give them a quick look-see. As it turns out, there were leaks at both of the rear brakes, but the front brakes looked leak free. The decision was made to replace ALL of the Bugeye's hydraulics including the master cylinder, lines and slave cylinders. The first step in this process is to remove the brake/clutch pedal box assembly, complete with the master cylinder and pedals.
The first step in the process was to dismantle the various parts (lines, pedals, master cylinder and pushrods. Once removed, everything got a dip in a parts cleaner bucket and then Evapo-Rust to soak off all of the surface rust before further, more aggressive, cleaning with the Dremel and brass wire wheels. With all of the clean-up complete, the next step was to remove the paint from the pedal box.
With the clean-up and paint stripping complete, it was time to move on to the fun part . . . painting! Etching primer for the bare metal, then filler primer for filling in the pitting and sanding lines and finally the topcoat of black paint.
I made the decision replace the original Lockheed master cylinder with a new one from Bugeyeguys. Rebuild kits were ordered to rebuild the original master cylinder as a winter project. Before installing the master cylinder, it was bench bled in an effort to minimize (as much as possible) adding air into the system.
Econobox Garage has done a nice job of showing many of the parts and steps involved in putting the brake/clutch pedal box back together. One of the interesting things about his videos is that he shows many of his mistakes as well as his tips. #wdydtyst#whenifixsomething#DIYCarMaintenance#bugeyesprite#msscarlet
This week in Paddy’s Garage - Week 5. I’m still in the process of removing engine bay components and refurbishing them as I go. The main tasks were to:
Remove the brake/clutch pedal box and master cylinder.
Dismantle original Lockheed dual master cylinder.
EvapORust the original master cylinder
Strip and paint the pedal box
Remove radiator and hoses
Remove generator
Next week the engine bay work continues with removing the distributor, labeling and organizing loose wires, removing hydraulic lines and rebuilding the original master cylinder and bench bleeding the new master cylinder.
Another week is over, so time for a recap of the progress on Ms. Scarlet. I was out of town until Friday so not much was accomplished other than clean-up and dismantling of my “Parts” SU H1 carbs.
Soak the entire set in EvapORust overnight.
Spray with Dawn and scrub with detailing brushes.
Soak in parts cleaner and spray with carb cleaner.
Wipe down and remove the manifold & heatshield.
Check out a 1098 cylinder head’s suitability for use in Scarlet.
Sand and paint the heatshield.
Sand and paint the heater core box.
Next week I’ll finish the heater/blower components and pack away until I’m ready to install. Then start on removing the master cylinder and hydraulic lines.
I saw on Acme's blog that a customer had come up with a "vertical position" storage solution (http://cartowdolly.com/eze-towtow-dol... ) but it only offered pictures. I thought some might like to see that type of solution in ACTION! My EZE-Tow Dolly is an older generation and the hitch is different from their current offering. Still, the principals will apply to the current version.
Min and Paddy have taken to the road to join up with some of their British mates around the US! This album has shots from a variety of those shows, festivals, and trips.